Pendant and chain shopping is full of names that get thrown around without much explanation. Chain construction affects how a necklace catches the light, how it lies against the neck, and how durable it is — so it's worth knowing what you're actually looking at.
Cable chain
The most classic chain style: a simple, uniform series of oval or round links, each identical to the last. It's the plainest construction and, because of that, the most versatile — it disappears behind a pendant rather than competing with it, which is why so many pendant necklaces use a cable chain as the default.
Box chain
Made of square links connected so that the chain looks like a continuous, smooth square-sided tube from the outside. It catches the light differently to a cable chain — more of a soft glint along its length rather than individual sparkle points — and has a slightly more structured, modern look.
Curb chain
Interlocking, twisted links that lie flat against the skin, giving a slightly chunkier, more textured look than a cable chain. Curb chains are popular for the current bold-chain trend precisely because the flattened links read as more substantial without necessarily being heavier.
Figaro chain
A pattern chain: one longer oval link followed by a series of shorter round links, repeating. The rhythm this creates gives figaro chains a bit more visual interest than a uniform cable or box chain, without moving all the way to a bold statement look.
Snake chain
Tightly connected round or square segments that create a smooth, flexible, almost liquid-looking chain with no visible individual links from a short distance. Snake chains sit very close to the skin and have a distinctly sleek, minimalist look — they're a common choice for pendant necklaces where you want the chain to feel invisible.
| Chain | Look | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Cable | Simple, uniform links | Letting a pendant lead |
| Box | Smooth square-sided tube | A structured, modern feel |
| Curb | Flattened, twisted links | Bolder, statement chains |
| Figaro | Long-short link pattern | Subtle visual rhythm |
| Snake | Smooth, almost liquid | A minimal, close-to-skin look |
Does chain type affect how a necklace lies?
Yes — flatter chains like curb and snake tend to sit closer to the skin and move less, while rounder chains like cable have a bit more natural movement and catch the light more variably as they shift. Neither is 'better'; it's a question of whether you want the chain to be a quiet backdrop or part of the design itself.
Chain type and layering
If you're building a layered necklace stack, mixing chain types (not just lengths) adds texture the way mixing ring shapes does in a ring stack — a snake chain, a cable chain and a slightly chunkier curb chain worn together will look more considered than three identical chains at different lengths. For the length side of that equation, see our necklace length guide.
Browse the full range in our necklaces collection.
The short version
Cable is the simple default, box has a smooth structured look, curb is bolder and flatter, figaro has a patterned rhythm, and snake is the sleekest and most minimal. None is objectively best — it depends on whether you want the pendant or the chain itself to do the talking.