If you have ever tried to buy a necklace and found yourself lost in words like cable, curb, Figaro and herringbone, you are not alone. A chain is simply a series of metal links joined together, but the way those links are shaped and connected changes how a chain looks, how it drapes and how much weight it can safely hold. This guide breaks down the most common chain types in plain English, so you can choose with confidence.
What are the main types of jewellery chain?
Most necklace and bracelet chains you will come across fall into a handful of recognisable styles. Here is a quick comparison before we look at each one in detail.
| Chain type | What it looks like | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Cable | Uniform round or oval links, each set at a right angle to the next | Pendants and everyday wear |
| Curb (incl. Cuban) | Interlocking links that twist to lie flat; heavier versions are the classic “Cuban link” | Wearing on its own; a sturdy look |
| Figaro | A repeating pattern of one longer link followed by two or three shorter ones | Everyday wear and pendants |
| Rope | Links twisted together so the chain looks like a spiral of rope, catching light well | A bold statement or heavier pendant |
| Box | Square links connected into a smooth, sleek line | Pendants; a neat, modern look |
| Snake | Tightly linked plates forming a smooth, rounded, flexible tube | Sleek minimalist styles and small pendants |
| Herringbone | A flat, liquid-looking ribbon of angled links | Wearing alone; not ideal for heavy pendants |
| Wheat (Spiga) | Woven strands of links plaited into a textured, braided look | Pendants and hard-wearing everyday pieces |
| Singapore | A fine, twisted chain that ripples and sparkles as it moves | Delicate, dressy everyday wear |
What is a cable chain?
A cable chain is the most classic style of all: simple round or oval links of the same size, each joined at a right angle to the one before. It sits flat, is easy to repair, and the links usually open wide enough to slip a pendant onto, which is why it is such a popular choice for pendant necklaces. If you want a versatile, understated chain that works for almost anything, a cable chain is a safe place to start.
What is a curb chain (and what is a Cuban link)?
A curb chain is made from links that have been twisted so they interlock and lie flat against the skin, even though the links themselves are quite chunky. Lighter curb chains look elegant and understated, while heavier, more tightly packed versions are what most people mean when they say “Cuban link”. Because the links are solid and interlocking, curb chains tend to feel substantial and look good worn on their own, without a pendant.
What is a Figaro chain?
A Figaro chain has a distinctive, easily recognised pattern: one longer, flattened link followed by two or three shorter round ones, repeating along the length. It originated in Italy and is a firm favourite for both men and women because it is decorative enough to wear alone but still sturdy enough to carry a pendant.
What is a rope chain?
A rope chain is made from small links twisted together so that the finished chain resembles a spiral of rope. All those tiny facets catch the light, giving a rope chain plenty of sparkle. It is a strong, eye-catching style that stands up well on its own and can also carry a heavier pendant.
What is a box chain?
A box chain is built from square links that connect into a smooth, four-sided line, so it looks a little like a series of tiny boxes. It has a neat, modern appearance, sits nicely whether round or flat, and holds a pendant well, making it a lovely choice for a sleek, contemporary necklace.
What is a snake chain?
A snake chain is made up of tightly linked plates or rings that create a smooth, rounded surface with a subtle ripple, much like a snake’s body. It has a beautifully sleek, seamless look. Because it is so smooth it suits minimalist styles and small pendants, though, like any flat, closely woven chain, it should be handled gently to avoid kinking.
What is a herringbone chain?
A herringbone chain is a flat, fluid ribbon made from short, angled links laid in alternating directions, giving that liquid-metal look that is so popular right now. It is stunning worn on its own, but it is worth knowing that herringbone relies on staying perfectly aligned and is not designed to bear the weight of a heavy pendant at a single point, so it is best enjoyed as a standalone chain and stored flat to keep it from kinking.
What is a wheat (Spiga) chain?
A wheat chain, sometimes called a Spiga chain, is made from several strands of links woven or plaited together into a textured, braided rope. The result is intricate, hard-wearing and holds its shape well, which makes it a good option if you want something a little more decorative that can still be worn every day and carry a pendant.
What is a Singapore chain?
A Singapore chain is a fine, twisted chain that has a gentle wave built into it, so it ripples and catches the light as it moves. It is delicate and dressy, ideal for a feminine, everyday look, though its slim build makes it better suited to lightweight pendants than heavy ones.
Which chain type is best for a pendant?
If you are buying a chain specifically to hang a pendant on, cable, box, Figaro, rope and wheat chains are all dependable choices, because their links are strong and the chain distributes the weight of a pendant well. Flat, closely woven styles such as herringbone and snake look beautiful but are happier worn on their own or with only very light charms. As a rule of thumb, the heavier your pendant, the sturdier the chain should be.
Which chain type is the most durable?
No chain is unbreakable, but some styles are more forgiving of daily wear than others. Rope, curb, Cuban and wheat chains are generally considered among the toughest because their links are solid and interlock closely. Very fine chains and flat ribbon styles like herringbone are the most delicate and are easiest to bend or kink if snagged. Whichever you choose, taking your necklace off before sleeping, showering or exercising, and storing it flat or hung up rather than jumbled in a drawer, will help it last. Our guide on how to store jewellery properly goes into more detail.
How do I choose the right chain for me?
Start with how you want to wear it. If you have a favourite pendant, pick a strong, pendant-friendly style like cable, box or Figaro. If you want the chain itself to be the star, a curb, rope or herringbone chain makes more of a statement. Think about scale, too: a fine Singapore or cable chain feels delicate and everyday, while a chunky Cuban curb feels bold. Finally, consider the metal and finish so it matches the rest of your jewellery.
A few pieces from our own collection show how the same idea works across different styles. The Luna Pearl Chain Necklace pairs a single freshwater pearl with a fine rhodium-plated sterling silver chain for understated luxury, while the everyday Infinity Sparkle Necklace keeps its chain delicate so the pendant leads. The same thinking applies to bracelets: the Pearl Harmony Bracelet uses a dainty gold vermeil chain to keep the focus on its baroque pearl. You can browse more in our Necklaces and Bracelets collections.
Does chain length matter as much as chain type?
Both matter, and they work together. The chain type decides the look and feel; the length decides where the necklace sits and how it layers. If you are unsure which length to choose, our necklace length guide explains the standard sizes and how to measure for the perfect fit.
The bottom line
There is no single “best” chain — it depends on whether you want to showcase a pendant or let the chain shine, and how hard-wearing you need it to be. Cable, box and Figaro are dependable all-rounders; curb, rope and wheat bring a sturdier, more decorative feel; and herringbone, snake and Singapore offer that sleek, delicate look best worn on their own. Once you can recognise the styles, choosing the right necklace becomes far easier.